This is my favorite Erhu（二胡）player. Here he's playing a slow song but sometimes he plays a fast tempo tune that makes good use of his right foot cymbal and left foot wood block.
He's awesome.
To a western ear the songs seem to go on forever but if you listen closely you can recognize a sort of improvised melody weaving through the song. At least I can when he plays.
Most of the street players aren't much good, but he's the exception. On a sunny day it's a pleasure to stop briefly and "give a listen." (By the way, this is literally how you say "Can I listen" in Chinese: "Please give me a listen.")
He's there every Saturday and Sunday morning from 10:00 to 1:00. I place a few bills in his can. He's worth it!
Click on the picture and have a listen.
...dave
A painter paints pictures on canvas. But musicians paint their pictures on silence. -Leopold Stokowski
He's awesome.
To a western ear the songs seem to go on forever but if you listen closely you can recognize a sort of improvised melody weaving through the song. At least I can when he plays.
Most of the street players aren't much good, but he's the exception. On a sunny day it's a pleasure to stop briefly and "give a listen." (By the way, this is literally how you say "Can I listen" in Chinese: "Please give me a listen.")
He's there every Saturday and Sunday morning from 10:00 to 1:00. I place a few bills in his can. He's worth it!
Click on the picture and have a listen.
...dave
A painter paints pictures on canvas. But musicians paint their pictures on silence. -Leopold Stokowski
You'll never see this in America, a guy welding out on a busy thoroughfare. We needed some work done on our mopeds. Shops that tear down a moped and do the work on the spot are just down the road from us. They use the already dangerous sidewalk as their workbench. Pedestrians simply walk around the tools and moped parts laying in the way. It's all part of living here. (OSHA would have a field day.)
In fact, I believe that the sidewalks were built to cause injury. Uneven and broken tiles pieced together without cement rock when you step on them. Even special yellow tiles installed for blind people are more treacherous than just walking in the street. The tiles are slick, especially when wet. Spill some oil on them and there is no way to walk down the sidewalk without doing a face plant. It's insanity.
Anyway, were was I? Oh yeah, a friend and I went down to the local moped repairman, who sits in an open roll up doorway. We explain that the kickstand doesn't support the bike correctly and my key ignition is spinning freely and needs replacing. On the spot, within 30 minutes, he welded stops on the kickstand (he just used bolts he had laying around in a bin), and replaced all four key locks on my moped. If I needed these repairs done in the States it would take a week and cost a fortune. But here in China, it was done while we waited and it cost us just $7, labor and parts included. Amazing.
When we arrived in China back in April I bought my moped at the second hand market. I just went down to the market, gave the guy 272 bucks and drove off. No license, no tax, no registration. Easy. But theft of the bikes is high. So to crack down on this the government has instituted a new program: all mopeds must be registered by January 1st.
This is a crazy process, especially for foreigners. The paperwork required: original purchase receipt, moped ID card, passport, VISA, local police office registration, proof of residency, etc. is a pain and complex. In addition, the form I had to fill out after handing over all this stuff was in Chinese. What's worse, my passport is in English (duh, it's from America!) so the guy typing all the information into the computer couldn't read it. I stepped around the barricade and helped him get the information into his computer. Eventually after two hours I had my license plate, personal ID card, and stamped numbers on my bike frame.
Yet, while riding down the road the other day, a cop flagged me down. Said that we are not allowed to have two people on the moped. Of course, everyone rides with two people on their electric bikes. I didn't argue. Ruth got off, I paid the $3 fee, and drove off. Ruth had to walk the rest of the way.
Go figure.
...dave
No matter how cynical you get, it's impossible to keep up. - Anonymous
We took a few days and went to Lijiang, Shuhe, and Baisha with some friends from America.Lijiang old town is a beautiful place to see in China. The small town has streams running under cobble stone foot bridges and through the town square. Shuhe is similar and a little less crowded. It's just a bus ride (or taxi) of 20 minutes out of Lijiang.
The area has grown since we last went in 2008. Most of the attractions (Tiger Leaping Gorge, Snow Mountain, etc.) have doubled in price. For example, we were surprised that just to get into the Snow Mountain park it cost 180 RMB (about $30) and then another 105 RMB ($15) to go up the mountain. That's $45 dollars US to see some snow!We skipped it.
Instead we walked around the towns and talked to the local people. We snapped pictures of old men playing chess and listened to local music on fascinating instruments. Overall it was a better experience for us. Besides, the tourist sights were crowded with people. Taking a little local bus and visiting with the locals was much more enjoyable.
We looked up a friend we knew in Lijiang and he took us to a fantastic dinner meal that evening and again to his sister's place for lunch the next day. He runs an English Tour company that will take you to various local places. If you don't know any Chinese (and even if you do) he's a great tour guide. He does day and multi-day tours including hiking, horseback riding, sight seeing, and shopping. Eric is a local Lijiang resident and speaks perfect English too. One of the best I've met. We met up with him in 2008 and again on this trip. He's a great host. (You can reach him at www.LijiangPrivateTour.com)We enjoyed talking with Mr Li in 龙余湖 Longyuhu. He had been in the Chinese army for some years back in the 50's and had a lot to talk about. He lived in a very modern looking stone house with an old tractor in front of it. I asked if I could take a picture and he was very agreeable. He asked me if I'd like to come inside, so we stepped into his entry area and snapped this picture. His town was at the base of Snow Mountain. The weather was perfect and the people friendly. One old man was squatting over a pile of boards, pulling out nails and straightening them. Our visiting friends talked with him while I snapped pictures.
Further up the road we found some horses grazing under the backdrop of Snow Mountain. On our last visit we rode for four hours and only paid $15 dollars, and the ride included a Naxi meal. This time they wanted $30 for an hour. No tours were around for miles. Some of the horse handlers were sitting in the shade playing cards. So we tried to get a ride for less. We told them that the horses were not doing anything anyway. No riders, no money. We asked for a discount. But the woman in charge was not going to hear of it. She was firm and wouldn't give up a penny. She complained that we'd only make the horses sweaty and that would mean more work for her later, when she had to wipe them down.
It seems that folks here just don't understand the meaning of tourism. They are still stuck in an old mindset. The government gives them a subsidized job to tend a store or tour center. They sit around and gamble playing cards or mahjong and smoke and visit among themselves. They don't care if anyone comes to buy or not. In fact, tourists are an irritant. Free enterprise is still unexplored territory. The ones that "get it" are doing well (like our friend Eric above).
On the way back to our inn in old town we passed some guys skinning and cleaning two deer. They had started when we left the town earlier that morning. Here, late at night they were still at it. They skewer the fresh meat and season it over an open fire. It smelled great but we had already enjoyed some goat meat prepared the same way. Good stuff. Besides these were just snacks. We were looking for something more substantial. And we found it.
Not too far from the water wheel of old town Lijiang was an East Indian restaurant. He had just opened up a week ago. He served us chicken, beef, and vegetable curries with soft, fresh pitta bread, and then later cheesecake and brewed coffee. It was enough to feed the four of us, and it cost just $30 US. I recommend his place if you are visiting Lijiang. He didn't have his website up yet but the restaurant is called "Maya Cafe." Check it out. You'll be glad you went!We finally made it back up to our inn on the hill and watched the moon come up over the city. We opened a bottle of imported wine and talked of our experiences of the day while sitting on our veranda.
Travel is such an exhausting endeavor.
See the show:
Music: De Ushuaia A La Quiaca and Pampa by Ronroco.
(See the photos: Lijiang photos on Flickr.com.)
...dave
Happiness is not having what you want. It's wanting what you have.
All in all we really do enjoy life here. There is pressure for sure. Crazy drivers and rude people. I guess you can find that anywhere. Over all, life is slower here.Yet, some of the events we see everyday here are so strange that to describe them would make you think I was just making stuff up. They are just too weird to the American mind-set to absorb.
For example, we often go shopping in a high-end mall nearby. We can buy anything from photo equipment (Nikon pro cameras) to imported furniture from Thailand. There is even a jewelry floor of jade, diamonds, silver, gold, etc. Well, you get the idea.
Last week I paused in front of the photo store while a woman held her five year old son over a trash can to pee. When she saw me (a blue-eyed stranger) she turned toward me to stare. The result was that the aim of her boy and subsequent stream was diverted to the store glass behind the trashcan and then cascaded onto the floor.
The concept of small children using the bushes, public planter boxes, or even the store entry stairs for a toilet is beyond me. Yet, no one here seems to be the least bit bothered by this custom. Last Saturday a 10 year old kid used the Starbucks planter box seating area! It was not more than 20 feet from the entrance. His mother stood by checking her phone messages. Ten minutes later another kid used the planter box as a runway for his toy airplane, ran it through the "water" and flew it over his head.
I know you think I'm making this stuff up, but I swear to you, this is an everyday occurrence. In fact, every kid not potty trained wears "split pants" that is, pants with the crotch un-sewn. It's always open. The kid does not wear diapers. This is convenient for the parents. When the kid has to go, they hold the squatting kid in their arms over the closest gutter or sidewalk plant to relieve themselves.
And I used to complain about lazy dog owners walking their pets in the park.
...dave
Build a bridge and get over it. - Anon
We are not trinket people so I was a bit surprised when we unpacked our bags after the trip to Thailand. Look at this stuff, and that's not all of it. Missing are a couple of blank journals I bought (see below). 
One day we went out looking for local artists. Lertsark Bangkaew paints these funky, quirky elephants. The oil originals are about $60-$100 whereas the prints are only $6. Each year he changes his style. This is a 2009 style, which I like. (You can check out his page by clicking on: Lertsark Bangkaew's studio.) It's great to have the time and be able to chat a bit with the local folks. We learn so much more about the country when we spend time with them.
Good inexpensive journals are everywhere in Thailand. The leather one (on the right) you see here was $9 and the cloth one was $6. I waited until the last day before we left and took all my change to the very sweet lady selling leather goods on a folding table on the sidewalk. She gave me a big discount (at least I think it was a big discount) on this leather refillable journal. The pages are tied in through the back. After I'm done with the current paper inside I can reload it with watercolor paper. The snap closure is great because it protects the pages as I slide it into my travel pack or backpack. 
Ruth picked up the cloth runner you see above from the "Long Neck Village" lady you saw yesterday. In this small way we give them some income. They live in extremely poor conditions, in tiny huts and mud floors. Buying these items provides some food and shelter and keeps the young girls off the streets. It's a very sad situation for them. While we were there we taught two of the kids some English words. I was amazed at how sharp they both were. They pickup the sounds quickly and imitated me perfectly. Perhaps the next generation will have a chance at better living conditions. We wanted to stay longer to share with them some positive things but had to re-join the rest of the tour group. Next time I'll come better prepared.We have many great memories of our trip to Thailand. Most of the people we met were friendly and seemed happy to meet us (more than can be said for the foreigners we met yesterday). They were always ready to help despite the pressures they felt of the oncoming flood.
We look forward to returning someday.
...dave
The happiest asks directions, even though he knows the way.
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| Snack Time - sugar cane sticks |
But this time we succumbed and . . . are you ready for this? We booked an all-day package tour.
It’s so humiliating I know. I hate to even admit to it. We take great pride in avoiding the camera wielding busses of sunburned tourists in tank tops and way-too-much-skin-showing shorty shorts.
The tour guides of these mass tours cart you around like cattle, chained to one another, and dump you off in trinket shops of overpriced “hand crafted” stuff. You wander around zombie-like stuffing shinny things into your pockets, buying things produced and replicated in every trinket shop across the country.Not us. No way. We ain’t doing that!
But yesterday we gave in, we folded under the heavy pressure of sameness and joined a clan of eleven foreign tourists.
And you know, it wasn’t all that bad. The free lunch was bland, the requests for tips was endless, and the sights were definitely “touristy” but other than that the pain wasn’t that severe. We made it through the day.
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| Long Necks Village |
Our tour guide was wonderful. She was personable and funny, and spoke great English. I bailed on the rafting ride after she didn’t directly answer Ruth’s question: “Have the guys ever tipped over a raft?” Her indirect answer was: “I can hold your camera for you.”
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| Vieng Mantra Hotel - Chiang Mai |
There was one interesting woman from Australia who has traveled the world several times . . . alone. Yep, that’s right. All by herself. She makes all her arrangements via the Net, package tours and all, and then proceeds to enjoy them, all by herself. Initially, she didn’t really say much to us. Eventually, she warmed up . . . a little. Then she talked about herself.
When the van came to pick us up in the morning and the door slid open, everyone just sort of stared at us. No warm greeting. No welcome. Not even a ‘hello’ from the dark interior. It didn’t start out well and and really didn’t get much better either.
Yeah, I’m embarrassed to say we succumbed to a package tour.
I’m going back to traveling alone with Ruth. She’s the best partner and we see and do so much more.
...dave
Do I look like a people person?
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| Pool view from our room balcony |
One guy paints nothing but stylized elephants, cute mother and baby elephants, almost cartoon looking, in every color of the pallet. Each year he changes his style so I could actually see his technique change from year to year. He does't allow photographs in his store for fear that some will take pictures and sell his work themselves. "You I trust" he said "I can tell you are a good person." Well, I'm glad someone finally noticed.
In another art store we met a girl who's husband photographs models and then digitally adds creative elements. The results makes the models look very fairy-like. Very interesting stuff. Not the kind I'd hang on my wall but creative nonetheless. She also is a photographer who shoots nature flowers in arranged patterns. He father carves wooden elephants which she displays in the shop. I really enjoy talking to the local artists. They give me creative ideas.
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| Pool Panorama with iPhone Pano app |
Near the elephant artist we found a place that makes fresh pizza in a real pizza oven. We sat at a picnic table under the garden trees and ordered a mozzarella and spinach pie, local beer and Coke.
We headed back to the hotel so i took advantage of the beautiful pool and cooled down during the hottest time of day.
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| colorful eats |
We rode a Tuk Tuk back to the hotel, took another dip in the pool, crashed in the room and dreamt of all the stuff we didn't buy.
...dave
Life's Tough. Get a helmet. - Anon
